February is usually chilly in central Spain with daytime temperatures around 54°F and nighttime temperatures around 37°F, dispelling the myth that it is always sunny and warm here. Madrid is located on a “meseta” in a high plain close to 2200 ft. above sea level. It is a dry cold which beats the wet, U.S. east coast winter, but sitting on a high plain, the winds can often be whipping here. After December and January, I was ready to get an injection of seratonin and headed for the coast of Alicante to the seaside town of Jávea.
Jávea sits on an eastern point of land on the Mediterranean about and hour south of Valencia. Humans have inhabited this region for thousands of years and it was an important port for the Carthaginians and the Romans. In fact, there are remains of Roman baths near the town and during the Punic Wars it is said that Hannibal marched by the area. Heading into the interior about 30 miles from Jávea, I was lucky to tour with an amigo from Valencia to visit an ancient town called Guadalest that boasts a beautiful castle erected by the Moors literally carved into the side of a cliff with views on a clear day for twenty miles towards the Mediterranean. This region is ancient and any visitor could stay busy doing day trips for weeks to hidden villages and archaeological sites. Another day, just outside of the port area, I did a rugged hike up the cliff path to the Lighthouse of Sant Antoni to discover amazing views up and down the coastline that has harbored mariners for millennia.
Unlike many of the coastal cities in the region of Alicante like Benidorm, Alicante and Calpe that are larger metropolises with many high-rise buildings, Jávea has maintained a small town charm. Yes, there are beautiful multi-million dollar homes on the hillside overlooking the port, but I do not recall a single building near the water to be over seven or eight stories high, with most really standing about four or five stories. The quaint old quarter of Jávea is above the port on a hillside. I did go there twice but in reality, I spent most of my days on the water in the port walking along the attractive seaside boardwalk. Strolling from the port to the Arenal on the southern side of the coastline was part of my afternoon routine. The sea is so spectacular that the 45 minute walk seemed to pass in an instance! The Arenal is the “happening” part of Jávea with numerous restaurants and bars serving Spanish and international cuisine. People congregate here for afternoon drinks with friends and family and to watch the sun set while children play in the sand. On the weekends and some weekdays in the Arenal, there are DJs mixing in clubs and bands performing live in bars, all with a raucous yet civilized atmosphere.
During the winter months, many Northern European “snowbirds” mainly from England, Holland and Germany, spend long retreats in Jávea which gives the pueblo a very international and sophisticated feel. I did speak a bit of Spanish with locals but I definitely spoke more English here than in other parts of Spain. For decades, the southern coast of Spain has been the summer getaway for the rest of Europe and Jávea can become much more crowded in July and August. I feel lucky to have done my getaway during February where I was able to enjoy clear skies and temperatures of the upper 60’s every day and yet not feel like I would be trampled by mobs of tourists upon exiting my apartment. Had I wanted to enjoy the waters of the Mediterranean, I would have gone in April or May when temperatures have risen enough to bathe in the clear waters. In February, I would say that Jávea is not the winter heat of southern Florida but rather the winter heat of say, Savannah, Georgia.
As a digital nomad with no car to move me and no permanent address, I found getting to Jávea was not that difficult and finding lodging through Airbnb for the month was simple and very affordable. I took the AVE train from Madrid to Valencia and soaked up the city for a day and the following day, I hopped a two hour bus to Jávea. In a car, the trip would be closer to one hour and fifteen minutes. Once in Jávea, there really is no need for a car on a daily basis if you are staying near the water. It is flat with most people on foot or a bike. Nevertheless, it would be great to have a rental car every now and then to do day trips all over the region. There are car rental services within Jávea but I was lucky to have friends who had cars and were kind enough to invite me on some excursions.
I have now returned to Madrid in March and it seems that spring has begun to take hold. Next week, we will have highs of 70°F. My escape to chase the sun last month seems to have turned out well, as it has followed me back to Madrid.